Saturday, August 17, 2013

Gibsons is growing up

I sailed away to Gibsons for a holiday weekend, having not been there for several months and finally affording the time for a more thorough exploration of the town.  It's really almost two towns, the newer big chain stores and businesses on the hill that arguably keep the town running for residents, and the older Gibson's Landing down the hill on the waterfront that draw in the tourists with artsie boutique shops and a variety of restaurants.  The houses there are a hodgepodge collection of ages and styles that suggest that neighbours aren't as caught up in the trappings of measurable curb appeal as us city rats.  One of my favorite properties has a fence made of wonky driftwood logs and planks, another is a jungle of bamboo peppered with mosaic installations.

Passing development proposal signs and a garage sale, I discover that these properties have been bought out and sections of this waterfront are going to be a several-storey convention center and condos.  Some residents lament the loss of the area's charm, which frankly I thought was drawing the tourists and thus bolstering the economy, but the new multi-use buildings will make it a 'destination' to bring in investors and other supporting businesses.  Apparently the town "needs the money".  Pity the cost of progress. 

So get while the getting's good before it's ruined! Their landmark restaurant Molly's Reach wouldn't dare be jeopardized as it's world famous from the long-running Canadian TV series The Beachcombers.  They serve an eggs benny made of crab cakes, so I try to catch that whenever I'm over that way.  Also on my list is Smitty's Oyster House; this particular weekend they were fully booked up for a private function.  Reservations suggested.  A meal of oysters+chardonnay is seldom cheap anywhere (unless you have a DIY source for fresh shellfish and home brew perhaps? If so, give me a call...!), so this is a personal indulgence that is part of the 'destination' of Gibsons.  Disappointed yet determined for oysters, a 360-degree spin from class and sophistication found what what the Brits affectionately refer to as a "chippy" - Codfathers.  Tiny hole in the wall that piqued my interest during a stroll that afternoon, I ordered their Sin Burger that was today's special; salmon served in a bannock, served with candied salmon cornbread fritters with maple syrup.  Most of the components of this meal were deep-fried.  Got breaded oysters too, huzzah! I'd pair with beer rather than wine, but they had no liquor licence and I had pop instead, fine, there is a simple pleasure of sugar and fizz on a hot sunny summer evening.  I had already had ice cream that afternoon at Mike's Place, and was impressed with the three counters of gelato to choose from.  I chose the 7th Heaven that had everything good in it including cheesecake chunks, pistachios, dark chocolate, and ginger.  Excellent!

The icing on the cake, so to speak, was the free outdoor music offered that weekend and indeed most of the summer.  I caught it first on Saturday evening as the CDs I was listening to were drowned out by the siren call of a bluesy harmonica wafting across the harbour.  A concert already in progress is motivation enough to pile dirty dinner dishes in the sink for later and run to catch the show! I caught just the last two songs, and enjoyed both the quality of the music and the vibe of the audience so chill and supportive.  Sunday afternoon showcased a violin and keyboard/accordion duo at the tiny farmer's market.  They lent a distinctive French flavour that would suit a chocolate croissant.

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